Aztek Fan Club

[usaaztek]

Trans is shifting hard when it gets warm after 10 mins of driving. Came up with code p1811 Pressure control solenoid stuck. 
I am going to try to run some seafoam in it, and change the fluid a few times. How do I do this? I am a complete novice when it comes to mechanics, but I am going to give this project a  try.
Is there a plug that I can just loosen and let the fluid out, or is there more to it?

[Python]

I think you have to take off the transmission pan to drain the fluid, but I could be wrong.  I'll let somebody who knows it a bit better chime in.

[usaaztek]

anyone know how to change the trans fluid?

[97drexelgrad]

Yes I'm pretty sure you have to drop the pan to do so and the filter is inside of the pan.  They do have a gadget that is a syphon that you drop a hose down the filler tube and will suck out the old fluid.  Easiest method by not the most effective

[ar4s1]

 Tranny fluid
« on: 28-06-2008, 20:11:42 »   

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Well since Tek Sgt now has 55,000 miles on the clock, I decided to go ahead and change the fluid in the transaxle. I was getting ready to do an oil change anyway and figured as long as I was down there I might as well just do it.

It was a painless procedure, as fluid changes typically are and I was amazed to see that the original fluid was still nice and red. Probably could have gotten away with leaving it but I aready had all the supplies. Anyway for those of you who have never done something like this, I'll offer up a few pointers.

1- The filter and pan gasket that I purchased came as a kit. The gasket was a flimsey rubber piece. When I pulled the pan off, I found that the original gasket was a much more rigid piece covered with rubber. Had I known that I would have gone and picked up an original style gasket. I'm sure that the replacement will be fine, but I would have felt better with the more substantial one.

2- Raise the vehicle so that the front is a good bit higher than the rear. Completely remove a half dozen or so of the 10mm bolts at what is now the lowest point of the pan. This will allow you to funnel the fluid into a catch basin as you begin to gradually loosen more and more bolts, working in both directions out from the ones that were removed. Eventually You'll work your way to a point where only one bolt is holding the pan at it's highest point. Be careful not to bend the pan!

3- Once the fluid has stopped dripping, remove and clean the pan, especially the gasket surface. I used a little silicone to secure the gasket to the pan while I was changing the filter.

4- The filter itself just pulls out, no hardware secures it. It will take some coaxing but it will eventually pull free. The new filter simply replaces the old one. I used a rubber mallet to LIGHTLY tap the filter into place until it seated. Now clean the gasket mating surface on the transaxle case. Reinstall the pan with new gasket with the 20-10mm bolts. I installed all 20 then worked my way around the pan snugging every other one to ensure that the gasket seated evenly, then went around one last time to torque the bolts down. 

5- Added the 7.4 US quarts of fluid through the transaxle dipstick tube. No leaks were visible today, I'll check again in a day or so. Intial test drive showed no surprises.

I used Royal Purple full synthetic fluid for my change so it was a bit pricey. Still the entire procedure only cost me about $100, the filter/gasket kit was only $12. Using Dexron III would have been much cheaper but I've been using the Royal Purple motor oil for some time so I figured I'd stick with that line of products. Maybe the power steering fluid will be next.