Aztek Fan Club

[LauraJ]

This is going to be a bit long, so I apologize. But I figured the more info available, maybe the better
the suggestions I could get. I really like this car, we've covered so many miles.
I have a 01 Aztek purchased used in 03 with 55K miles. I bought it from a Ford dealer who took it as a trade.
It had electrical problems when he took it. They where working on it when I looked at it.
They replaced all the control modules and put a new battery in. They thought they had it fixed,
but it took a mechanic who did regular work for me to figure out, when they replaced the battery,
the didn't use the proper screw to hold the negative cable and the car was not grounding properly.
The dealership wasn't happy, but they paid the bill. The car ran great for a long time. I am a distance
driver, not stop-and-go. I drive 75 one-way to work, so 150 miles 5 days a week (1 hr 20 min.).
Since 03, I've done maintenance: oil changes, tires, plugs, filters, etc. I have also had the C305 connector
replaced in spring 09 (thanks to all the info here, I knew what was wrong before the mechanic),
 and the alternator winter 09 (every warning light on the dash board came on with
this one). I've had no other major problems. I've currently 250K miles.
I have the usual gas cap/Service light issues. I have had 4 gas caps since 03.
Starting in mid-February, I started to have some weird issues. First the odometer went out. A couple weeks later it
came back on. Then my daughter mentioned that it was idling high. Sometimes when you tapped
the gas it would go down, sometimes not. Then that stopped. In the midst of all this, the change oil
light came on. Then the gas guage, on start up would read accurate, then fall to empty and the low fuel light would
come on, even though the tank was full. This too came and went. And, when it happened, about
15 minutes into my drive, it would work fine. All these things stopped.
The last Friday, I started it for a short hop, it started fine, took off fine, went around a corner and just stopped.
No noises, no bells, no whistles. No knocking like running out of fuel. Lights all worked fine.
I turned the car off. Waited briefly and turned the car back on. It reluctantly started up, choking like it wasn't getting
enough fuel. Since I was on a hill, I gave it a little gas and the car bounced back and was fine. Wasn't until it
did it again, that I thought maybe there was a problem. Saturday morning, took the car out and was working
fine, when it died again and this time would not restart at all. Had it towed home. It would click, lights worked.
Monday, had it towed to Sears, installed a new battery (mine was ready). Found that the last mechanic (most likely
the guy who did the alternator we think) must of lost the screw to the negative lead and just grabbed whatever
was handy to reconnect it. We replaced that. Had them pull the #28 fuse. Wait. No go.
Sears pulled the dipstick and it came up barely showing oil. The guys thought it was in lockout over this. So, they
put some new oil in, brought it up. Pulled the fuse again, let her set 30 min. Now atleast, it's turning over, but it's
still not getting any fuel. And, still won't start.
I was not in the shop, so I don't know if they could hear the fuel pump or not.
Sears couldn't do any more with it, so I had it towed to the local Chevy dealer who won't touch it. He doesn't
have the specific code reader for Azteks. So now I'm going to have it towed home until I can figure out where to
take it. After reading and reading, I'm leaning towards BCM, but could this be something in the fuel sending unit or
sensor, or maybe just a clogged fuel filter? Much as I would love to, I can't do these repairs myself, and I can't
afford to send it to someone anymore on a wing and a prayer hoping they can fix it. And, with 250K on it, should
I fix it? It still looks great on the outside. The seats have obvious wear, but I bought it that way. I just though I'd throw this
out there and see what comes back.
Thanks
Laura

[chameleon-Kat]

Thats a tough one.  With both the fuel gauge (and perhaps fuel pump) not working  I'd have to wonder about the c305 connector (depending on how it was corrected).  I believe the pump and sensor (for guage) come as one unit but I don't know if they really share wiring or not.  Per a newfie post from a long time ago, the BCM should not have any direct bearing on whether or not it starts.

[Python]

Why won't the Chevy dealer touch it?  No code reader?  That's a little odd.  Any other GM dealers around?  I know when my Intake Manifold started leaking I took it to the Chevy dealer no problem.

How long ago was the C-305 replaced?  If all they did was replace it with another connector, what are the odds that the new connector is corroded?  Fuel pump, filter, line, all things I hope they checked as well when trying to find the problem.  Fuel filter should be replaced every 30,000 miles.

Hmm ... not sure what else to suggest.  I hope you figure the problem out!  By the way, 250k miles ... very impressive!

[Aztek-Knight]

WHAT?! Sears - and a GM dealer couldn't read it??? Sears, okay, I'll give on that one... but that's REALLY sad.

The Chevy Dealer??? I would have asked for a manager, and then his boss, and on and on till you got some WORK - if a GM dealer can't work on a GM product then something is wrong and you need to be taken care of in some way - they should have paid for a tow to a Pontiac dealer or something. All the GM cars/trucks/whatever come out of the same big "parts toy box" and they have all the tools to work on it - maybe they'd have to order a tiny little part... or get some shop manuals perhaps (I bet they could get them electronically). They should not have just turned you out into the cold with a busted Aztek. I am 99.9% sure they would have a code reader... even AutoZone has one that reads GMs... they all have the same port (they only change that every few years/decade or so, not EVERY make/model).

Goodness, time to start a fire under their butt! Tell them that maybe the local news station would like to know about the issue. That is just unacceptable they would not work on it.

Did you get anything figured out yet? I hope the best for you, keep us posted!

[LUVmyTEK]

How exactly was C305 corrected before?

That was the first thing that came to my mind before reading any of the answers, only because of the symptoms. The fuel gauge and the fuel pump definitely run thru that connection. The eratic idle could be caused by this as well, the computer can't tell what's going on when the reading come back from the c305. When mine had the 305 issues, it would die, and just not start back. After sitting sometimes it would start, but it would then quit again after an undertermined amount of time, and not start back.

The oil change light probably came on because it was time for it. The odometer I don't know.

Who determined that is wasn't getting fuel, and how? Was a pressure test ran on it? Is the fuel pump running? Can you hear it kick on? If the engine is turning over, you should be able to go out yourself and turn the key and hear the fuel pump kick on.

If it is indeed a fuel problem, you should consider some basics before jumping to any one thing.
Is the fuel pump coming on?
if so, Is it putting out enough pressure to run the engine
if not, when is the last time the fuel filter was changed?
If it is not running at all, you need to find someone who can test for power coming thru the c305 connector to the fuel pump. The fuel pump may be bad, or it may not be getting any power thru the c305. Any competent mechanic with a test light should be able to do this for you.

I can not believe the GM dealership turned you away. They don't need a scan tool to check that connection.

[LauraJ]

Update: Had my Tek towed to a mechanic about 50 miles away who I know is reliable. They are going to take a look at my Tek and then call me and give me an idea of what's going on and costs.
We had a local mechanic do the C305 about a year ago. I liked him and he usually did good work, too bad the local place let him go. I believe he replaced it and did something to keep it from corroding again. I think he was supposed to do some other things, but it's been a year and I don't remember. Somewhere I've got the billing that should tell me. I do remember it was $1150 after all was done.
Thanks for all the suggestions. It really helps a lot to be able to come in and get ideas where to start with some of the problems.

[LUVmyTEK]

Good luck, hopefully he'll have good news for you and it will be something easy peasy.

For that price, I have to assume the prior mechanic replace the c305 connector with replacement plugs. That would certainly remedy the issue at that time, but it would eventually have a second failure, it's a flawed design. Completely getting rid of it is the easiest and most permanet fix.

Please let us know what they found.

[LauraJ]

So, Pillar's Repair called me this morning with great news!
The problem turned out to be the C-305 connection again. The connection corroded from the back. Somehow, water was getting in near the rear seats. Pillar's is getting a decent used replacement and will be putting in the silicone to keep the problem from happening again any time soon. I have to admit, they did seem amused that I knew what the part was before they told me.
So current estimated repair costs are 160.00, including an oil change. So I went ahead and am having the fuel and air filters replaced and the plugs checked. All-in-all, not as bad as I feared. (BIG SIGH OF RELIEF!)
Thanks all for your comments!

[chameleon-Kat]

Always good new to have an answer, even if its not something you want to hear  .  Hopefully the fix will have a good long life

[Aztek-Knight]

Glad they found out what was the issue! Hope you are back in the Tek soon!

[Dukat]

So, Pillar's Repair called me this morning with great news!
The problem turned out to be the C-305 connection again. The connection corroded from the back. Somehow, water was getting in near the rear seats. Pillar's is getting a decent used replacement and will be putting in the silicone to keep the problem from happening again any time soon. I have to admit, they did seem amused that I knew what the part was before they told me.
So current estimated repair costs are 160.00, including an oil change. So I went ahead and am having the fuel and air filters replaced and the plugs checked. All-in-all, not as bad as I feared. (BIG SIGH OF RELIEF!)
Thanks all for your comments!

Laura- just a thought, but NEVER have a dealer or anyone do your Cabin Air Filters... They charge WAY too much and it's easy to do yourself. The air filter under the hood can be tricky, so that is ok to leave to others...

I think the dealearship wanted to charge $85 for just the cabin air filters, not including install.. you can get them CHEAP at Meijer or Pep Boys.....

[Pontiac6KSTEAWD]

I know my C305 connector is going bad. And my warenty doesnt cover it, damnit.

However, that Chevy dealer who said they dont have whatever to find out whats wrong with it is a straight up liar, and I, personally, would tell that to them. They simply didnt want to work on it. My local Pontiac dealer knows not to mess with me on this type of thing, I have bought 3 cars from them, and if they want my business, they better treat me right. And surprisingly, they have never messed with me, and have always given me reasonable rates. Of course, me being a mechanic, they know this, they know better than to throw horse crap at me.

Anyways. Good thing it was a cheap and easy fix, hears to another 250k reliable miles!!

[LauraJ]

Well, it was closer to 300 when I was finished at the mechanic, but I had some other problems addressed at the same time.
They replaced the c305 connector and siliconed it, replaced the fuel filter. Blew out the air filter, checked the plugs and wires, belts and hoses. Checked my transmission fluid. Everything but replace the hamster that runs the radio. They worked on something else too, that I can't remember right now ... all the receipts are at home. It was nice to get my car back ... PSYCH!!
The Service Traction System light came on right out of the lot. You guessed it, back we went on Monday (they were kind enough to talk someone into waiting for me on Saturday as they are closed). Turns out to be a faulty wheel sensor. They fixed the first one and an hour later I was back on the road ... PSYCH!
The light came back on just 20 whole minutes later. Good thing I was only 3 miles out. Even though they did the correct repair, it kept coming lose. So they did a permanent fix on it. This worked fine for about 3 days when ... you guessed it the light came back on. But this  time it only came on after a heavy bump. So I'm thinking another loose wire, since when I turn it off, it doesn't come right back on, and crazily enough, it hasn't come back on since (about a week). We're going to take it back again, anyways.
Considering it's history, I may have them run a check on the sensors throughout the car just in case.
But with driving 150 miles each day, it might be time for another car. Besides, my kids are all now sizeable teenagers with even more sizeable teenage friends ... I might be getting a van, LOL.

[LorneH]

I started AFC today and have already resolved my P0449 code because of posts like this (many thanks). Soaking the C305 in an anti-corrosive bath seemed to work but the gas guage still indicates only full (most of the time) or empty (after idling for more than 3-5 minutes); I am hoping that a complete bypass of the 305 will solve this problem as well.
I had the ABS cutting out which kept knocking off my traction control this past winter; my 2002 AWD was cutting out after I hit bumps or took hard left turns. I cannot put my hand over my heart and say with 100% certainty that I found the culprit but it went away after I opened up the passenger tail light and cleaned the connections. Takes a few minutes so is worth a try; the power for the ABS comes from the tailight.